Lochs galore

The eastern part of the island of Lewis, south of Stornoway, is referred to as Lochs. For obvious reasons. Driving down the minor sideroad to Grimshader, Ranish and Crossbost, you encounter nothing but lochs (Scots for lakes). The sea is never far away either, with several sealochs (obviously connected to the sea, in this case the Minch) penetrating deep inland. Loch Erisort, 10 miles south of Stornoway, reaches 15 miles from the sea to the village of Balallan. These are the site for several fish and musselfarms. Setting the scene for a scenic drive this afternoon, with the sun out.



Coming down the B897 (which branches off the main road south from Stornoway to Tarbert), first popped into Ranish, which overlooks Grimshader on the far side of the loch. Incidentally, the sideroad within Ranish takes you to the Loch Erisort side of the peninsula. It is fronted by a 360 foot high hill, which I once traversed in pouring rain, in my footloose days back in 2005. Beinn Mhor - to the Gaelic speakers among you, this name will not come as a surprise. The big hill. Doubling back into Crossbost, the road plunges down to the little bay at the end of the road. The churchyard, at the Leurbost side of the village, has seen me several times for war graves business.



We then continued through Leurbost to the junction at Cameron Terrace, then on to Achmore. The map above is incorrect, by the way. The main road is not the A858, which veers northeast out of Achmore. This is a narrow, single-track, road to Stornoway. Although it cuts the distance to town from 12 to 9 miles, it is by no means faster. It rises to 500 feet above sealevel at Beinn a'Bhuinne, past shieling huts and peat cuts. Pity that my camera battery gave out at that point, after sustaining me through about 250 pictures. Here are some of the 50 I took today.


Lochs


Fidigarry, entering Ranish


Shack at Ranish


Ranish


At the end of the road in Crossbost


Leurbost


Lochs at Achmore


Achmore

Tuesday's storm

So we had a 50 mph storm on Tuesday. Someone's dustbin was emptied by the gale; bin on its side, contents blown away. A sailor got into difficulties after he had to give up his anchorage in Glumag Harbour, for a vessel that was due in. Said vessel rode out the storm outside the harbour until Wednesday morning. He was towed into port by the lifeboat. A heavy gale always generates interesting images, see below.


Lifeboat to the rescue




Heavy seas at the Coastguard Station

Thursday 10 September

A nice, sunny day in Stornoway, where we have another cruiseliner in: the Hebridean Princess. Pay £7,000 for two weeks bobbing about on the waves in the Hebrides. No thanks, I'll use a Calmac tub to do that.

Another cruiseliner was in the news for the wrong reasons: the Balmoral, carrying more than 1,800 passengers and crew, was afflicted by the winter vomiting bug. The ship last docked at Invergordon, 25 miles north of Inverness, earlier in the week and headed for Portree in Skye. Due to the poor weather, she diverted to Tobermory. The ship's owners now state that the bug was brought on board by a passenger, who did not stay in her cabin as advised. She spread it to nearly 80 other passengers.

Wednesday 9 September

To quote the National Hurricane Center, nines must have gone wild today. It's 09/09/09, and at 09:09:09 it was nines all the way. Tropical storm Erica, somewhere in the eastern Pacific, had its 9th warning at 09:00 GMT on 09/09/09 and thus we can continue for a little while yet.

At any rate, it's quietened down greatly since yesterday - we're down to force 4, and it was nice and fairly sunny. Cruiseliner Astor was hiding off Lower Sandwick today, as its tenders went back and forth to take its passengers ashore for tours of the island. A cargo boat, due in yesterday, docked at the Fabrication Yard. I don't know what it's doing there; the Yard is a mile away, and I cannot discern what its two cranes are taking on or off board.

Spend part of the afternoon looking up more information for the Uist war memorials; only have Barra left to do, which is about 150 names.

Reading of blogs

I have fallen way behind with the reading of blogs, and hope to catch up at some stage. Sorry if I have missed anything of note.

Tuesday 8 September

Overcast and very windy indeed. The wind is touching galeforce, and is expected to rise further to force 9, which involves windspeeds of 45 mph sustained. There are warnings out for gusts up to 80 mph later this afternoon. As I type, spray is blowing over the causeway across the water. We have no ferry service to Ullapool at all today (both crossings cancelled), and there is major disruption right across the west coast of Scotland. Planes are flying normally, although I wouldn't fancy a flight out of here today. If you want to monitor current conditions at Eoropie, 25 miles north of Stornoway near the Butt of Lewis, you can have a look here.

Monday 7 September

Overcast today, and rain approaching from the Atlantic. This will be followed by our first autumnal gale tomorrow, which could see winds up to 45 mph. It's September, and we're not allowed to forget that.

Hurricanes, I hear you ask? Well, it'll be the peak of the season very soon, but the Atlantic isn't up to much. The Pacific sees a regular procession of tropical cyclones, some off the coast of Mexico, some in the Western Pacific off Asia. Nothing remarkable. Yet.

On Friday, it will be 8 years ago since the terrorist attacks on New York and Washington, that have gone down in history as 9/11. I'll be posting my tribute to Norberto Hernandez, as part of project 2996. It will be the only posting for the day, and I'll attempt to post at 1.46pm (UK time), which was the time the first plane flew into the WTC in New York on 11 September 2001.

Pictures - 6 September

Maaruig / Màraig



Rhenigidale / Reinigeadal


Cloud nearly at road level north of the Maaruig junction


Arivruaich / Airidh a'Bhruach



Kinloch Seaforth / Ceann Sìphoirt


Loch Eishken / Loch Eisgein


Sideabhal


Balallan from the Eishken road



Loch Erisort Inn


South Lochs from Keose


Harbour at Keose / Ceos

East coast trip

This afternoon, we headed off for the eastern reaches of Lewis (and Harris) by car. First port of call was the tiny village of Keose, tucked away 2 miles off the main road between Stornoway and Tarbert. After freeing a small bird, that had managed to get itself locked into a creel, we had a look round and returned to the main road. Lunch was taken at the Loch Erisort Inn, in the shape of fish and chips. This used to be operated as the Claitair Hotel (still on the beer sign), but was refurbished a few years ago. The Loch Erisort Inn stands in the district of South Lochs, which I know very well after staying there through the winter of 2004/5. Nothing has changed round there. We then headed up another side road, to Eishken. If only to see it whilst there are no wind turbines on the hills. It is a wild and desolate area, with a savage natural beauty. Its native inhabitants were removed to make way for sheep. I think the year 1820 is still referred to as the Year of the Sheep. Eishken Lodge is the base for shooters and fishers who go round the empty peninsula, which once hosted 36 villages. Back on the main road, I found a new memorial to that disaster of Scottish history called Bonnie Prince Charlie. He had landed at Arivruaich (according to the memorial, although my info says it was on an island near Lemreway, 20 miles to the east) and sneaked over to Kildun Cottage at Arnish (just across the water from my current position) to request sanctuary in Stornoway. The burghers declined this hot potato but didn't shop BPC either. Crossed the border into Harris and promptly drove into the clouds (at 500 feet above sealevel) on our way to Rhenigidale. This village didn't have a road until 1987 - everything had to be brought in by boat or on foot. The main village in Harris, Tarbert, is 4 miles away, but that involves an ascent of 1,000 feet along a 1 in 2 incline. Upon return to Stornoway, I found I had taken 192 pictures today. Uploading these 244 MB will take a while, so I'll post some of the pics in another entry.

Sunday 6 September

Brightening up after a wet start, and a bit breezy. It is forecast to be more than just "a bit breezy" on Tuesday. We are on warning for severe gales and heavy rain (up to 40 mm / 1.6") for that day. The first autumn gale. The equinox is just over a fortnight away, so no surprises there.

As the weather is clearing up, we're hitting the road for the afternoon, so I'll return this evening with pictures.

Saturday 5 September

Overcast after a rainy start - strange thing was that at 4 am, the moon was still shining brightly. Weather changes so rapidly out here, it's hard to keep up with it. On the tropical front, things have quietened down. Hurricane Jimena is no more, tropical storm Erika has fizzled out due to contrary winds and tropical storm Dujuan is not going to bother Japan, I don't think.

I felt a bit queasy after reading that the man who married Jade Goody shortly before her death has been arrested on suspicion of rape. The only reason this horrible crime gained the headlines to the extent it has is that he was married to Z-list celebrity Jade. And the only good she ever did was draw attention to cervical cancer and the importance of taking smears and acting on them.

Locally, the council has approved the planning application for the Eishken Windfarm. This involves 39 turbines, each standing well over 400 feet tall on hills that overlook the Harris Hills and a large area of scenic beauty. Including the Callanish Stones. Can't say I'm happy with it.

Friday 4 September

Overcast and wet today, but not nearly as wet as northeastern Scotland. The area east of Inverness has had rainfall totals of nearly 100 mm (4 inches), which has caused serious problems with flooding. Apart from blocked roads and railways between Inverness and Aberdeen, about 400 people were evacuated from their homes at Elgin and others at Fochabers. The rain is moving away east, leaving folk to clear up the mess.

When, like me, you are interested in the news, and will reflect it on your website or blog, it is advisable to use reputable sources. The BBC is one of my primary sources. Two newspapers in Bangladesh ended up with one giant embarrassment, after they used a story from The Onion website, without realising that this is a satirical outlet, which makes up its own stories based on historical fact. Read more here. Yes, it's on the BBC, so it's OK.

Thursday 3 September

Overcast but fairly bright this morning. Heavy rain elsewhere in Scotland, but the Hebrides is having the best weather in all the country. May get a little drizzle, but nothing that is likely to produce flooding.

Today, 70 years ago at 11 am, the Second World War was declared by the United Kingdom, France and other nations. Germany had ignored an ultimatum to withdraw from Poland. Neville Chamberlain's radio announcement will be replayed over and over again today.

The Scottish Government is to unveil plans to hold a referendum on independence for Scotland, likely to be held in 2010 if the SNP get their way. Opposition parties in the Scottish Parliament will combine to thwart these plans, making it unlikely that said referendum will be held in this session of the Parliament (which will end in 2011).

More later.

Lockerbie - the political fall-out

Today, the Scottish Parliament debated the decision to release the convicted Lockerbie bomber Al-Megrahi on August 20th. MSPs were critical of the way the Scottish Government had handled the situation. A vote was taken on the issue at 5 o'clock this evening, and the government were defeated by 73 votes to 50, with one abstention. There will be no vote of no-confidence in the Scottish Government.

The focus of attention is now moving south of the border to the UK government. Prime Minister Gordon Brown is firmly in the spotlight, with revelations that he is reported to have said that he didn't want Megrahi to die in jail.

Although I dislike the SNP administration in Edinburgh, I support their decision to free Megrahi, as I believe it was taken for the right reasons. I feel it is disingenuous of the UK government not to fully brief the Scottish Government of the whole state of affairs surrounding Libya - but then, there is no love lost between Labour and the SNP. As I disapprove of this issue being turned into a political football, I am not going to devote any more posts to it.

Wednesday 2 September

Bright start to the day, but cloud is gradually increasing. Rain is on its way in from the southwest, but not before the afternoon is out.

Hurricane Jimena (I keep misspelling its name) is heading into Baja California, but is weakening all the while. By landfall, later today, it'll be a category I or II system; fears were for a category IV strike. Tropical storm Erika is an incoherent storm off the Leeward Islands, which is set to head northwest. It won't come to very much, as atmospheric conditions are not very conducive towards strengthening.

A powerful earthquake has struck the Indonesian island of Java at 0821 GMT today (0921 BST or 0421 EST). Centred at position 8.0S 107.4E, the Indian Ocean basin was put on tsunami watch, which was cancelled within the last hour. Some damage was caused to buildings in the west of Java.

1 September 1939

The armed forces of Adolf Hitler's Germany invaded Poland on this day, 70 years ago. The invasion triggered the cascade of alliances which was to lead to the declaration of war two days later. Great Britain and France had pledged to come to the aid of the Poles, and sent an ultimatum to Berlin to withdraw or else. Poland fought back valiantly, but its army had no chance. After a month, Poland was overrun from west and east - the Soviet Union taking its cut as a result of the pact between it and Nazi Germany, signed in August 1939.

The lights went out 70 years today. It would be nearly 6 years before they were on again.

Tuesday 1 September

Summer is over with September on the calendar. Not that August was much of a summer month here at any rate. The only real vestige of summer was the midges. Anyway, not complaining: I prefer moderate temperatures to the heatwaves they've been having on the European continent. And I prefer it even more to the hurricane conditions that will affect the south of the Baja California peninsula later today. Hurricane Jimena is bearing down with winds of 155 mph near its centre. That will decrease somewhat, but it's not going to be a teaparty.

I quote the relevant paragraph from the NHC website: "Interests in the hurricane warning area are advised that strong winds will precede the arrival of the center by several hours, so preparations need to be completed very soon. Remember not to focus on the exact forecast track since dangerous impacts extend some distance from the center. Jimena will be approaching the Baja peninsula at an oblique angle, and small deviations left or right of the forecast track could result in large errors in both the location and timing of landfall."

Photo video - 2 July

A photo compilation of pictures I took during a walk in the Yorkshire Dales last July.

Photo video - 1 July

A video of a walk I took during my holiday in the Yorkshire Dales.

Monday 31 August

Today it's 12 years ago that Princess Diana was killed in a carcrash in Paris. The cause of the crash is excessive speed coupled with excess alcohol in the bloodstream of the driver, who also lost his life. The nationwide and indeed worldwide outpouring of grief over the death of the "People's Princess" was unprecedented. Speculation surrounding the crash have continued ever since, and the unseemly legal battle fought by Mohamed Al-Fayed was only brought to a close last year. His son, Dodi, was killed alongside Diana, and the two were at least close friends.

The weather in the islands today is grey with occasional drops of rain. This morning saw me gallivanting around town, looking for bits and pieces. I've sent off a couple of letters to historical societies in Lewis, asking for more information on about 80 men who died in World War I that I only have scant details on. Awaiting the outcome of that, and half a dozen emailed queries, with interest. Plugging the website: Faces from the Lewis War Memorial.

Hurricane update - 31 August

Focus today is on Hurricane Jemina, a category IV hurricane in the Eastern Pacific, some 380 miles south southeast of the southern tip of Baja California. Jemina is headed northwest with winds of 125 knots, gusting to 150 knots. That means winds of 140 mph, gusting to 170 mph. The hurricane is forecast to intensify further, although as it approaches Baja Sur, the influence of land will erode some of its force. Nonetheless, by the time Jemina hits land, winds near its centre will still be at or just over 100 knots, 115 mph. Baja California sees hurricanes or tropical storms every year, but if the forecast is correct, this will be one of the most potent storms to hit the peninsula in recorded history.

Baja Insider relays information on Jemina to residents, although the formal forecaster is the National Hurricane Center in Miami. The current location for landfall is Magdalena Bay, although all residents in Baja Sur should be preparing for the arrival of the hurricane. Winds of 34 knots or higher extend for 80 miles from the centre (at present); hurricane force winds (64 knots) extend for 30 miles from the centre.

29 August 1930

Yesterday, it was 79 years ago since the last few dozen people were evacuated from the archipelago of St Kilda (Hiort), 40 miles west of the Outer Hebrides. The move, requested by the people themselves, came in the wake of a decline in population and the increasing problems posed by their remoteness. St Kilda has remained without permanent habitation since, with only Ministry of Defense personnel monitoring the rocket range on Uist and National Trust for Scotland staff looking after the remains of the houses there. Upon departing their shores, the St Kildans left a handful of grain on their tables, alongside the family bible, opened at the chapter Exodus.

A few houses have been restored, and cruiseliners regularly call in the summer. Reaching the islands is still difficult, due to the weather and sea conditions found in the North Atlantic. Efforts have been made to retain the history and culture of the islands, and quite a few books have been written. Yesterday was the first-ever St Kilda day. It is a good thing to celebrate culture. Celebrating an extinct culture in 21st century fashion is something that doesn't sit very easy with me.

Tour of Norse Mills

Yesterday, I went on a guided tour round Norse mills (or what's left of them) around parts of Lewis. According to the guide, there were hundreds of mills around - a figure of 262 was quoted.


The weather on tour


Mill at Cleascro, Achmore


Mill at Breasclete


Scrambling down to the mill site near Tolstachaolais, below



Near the site of a mill at Carloway


Old School centre, Shawbost


Restored mill and kiln, Shawbost


Millsite at Bragar

Picture post - 28 August

On Friday, we made for Garry Beach, which is located 2 miles north of North Tolsta and 15 miles north of Stornoway on the east coast of the island. The weather was completely different to the day before, starting off bright and sunny, but ending with showers.


Coll Beach


Glen Tolsta


Garry - the valley








Garry Beach


The heather is blooming!


Traigh Mhor [the Big Beach] at Tolsta


View south along the east coast of Lewis

Picture post - 27 August

On Thursday, we had use of a car, so after picking up someone in Ness (north Lewis), we headed south to have lunch at the Blackhouse Village in Gearrannan. By late afternoon, we made for Uig, west Lewis. Paid a visit to the wee museum in the community centre at Timsgarry, then headed south for the Top End. Total distance travelled: 135 miles.


Along the road in Ness


Blackhouse Village, Gearrannan


Along the road at Breasclete, north of Callanish


The B8011(M) at Enaclete


Near Mangersta


Waterfall at Brenish


The End of the Road at Mealista


Beyond the End of the Road

Hurricane update - 30 August

Hurricane Jemina, carrying winds of 100 knots (115 mph), is headed northwest some distance offshore from the coast of southwestern Mexico. It could make landfall in the peninsula of Baja California in the next few days, and I do not relish the prospect of a category IV hurricane making landfall there.

Tropical storm Krovanh is headed north in the Pacific and could graze the city of Tokyo in Japan. This is unlikely to reach typhoon strength, but I don't think it is a teaparty to have force 10 to 11 winds in a big city like that. I'll keep an eye on progress there.

In the Atlantic, no formal tropical cyclones, but a disturbance is winding up 1,000 miles east of the Lesser Antilles. NHC is tracking that one closely.

Sunday 30 August

Trying to brighten up on a cold morning. OK, shouldn't complain about 14C, but there's this penetrating wind blowing. Went to the shop up the road to scout for the Saturday papers, but there were none. It appears hardly any came yesterday. Feeling withdrawal symptoms from my daily fix of north news.

It is very quiet here on a Sunday, and the grand total of two cars on the move bears witness to that. Things will liven up in a bit, when traffic heads for the 2.30pm ferry (it's 12.20 now). Otherwise, you could fire off a gun and hit nobody.

Saturday 29 August

Freezing cold day today, with strong winds and frequent heavy showers. And that was the day I went out on a tour round former grain mills in the island. The heavy rain had turned the streams, powering those mills, into torrents and the wind made the 14C feel more like 4C. Anyway, quite interesting. Will post pictures tomorrow.

Friday 28 August

The day started bright and sunny, but the cumulus clouds built up to showers, some of which quite heavy although brief in the afternoon. After a lunchtime visit to Garry Beach, 15 miles north of Stornoway on the east coast of Lewis, we returned to Ness for the afternoon. Total number of pictures about 80. Will upload today's and yesterday's photographs this evening.

Japan is eyeballing tropical storm 12W, which is yet to be named. This system could be on a collision course with Tokyo on August 31st, although you never know what happens next with tropical cyclones. Should the forecast prove correct, Tokyo could be seeing a typhoon on Monday.

This morning, the A866 road in Lewis was closed for a while following a one-car accident at Braighe na h-Aoidhe (Branahuie). Its sole occupant had to be extricated by the emergency services, while queues of traffic built up on either side of the Braighe, the narrow isthmus of land that links the Point peninsula to mainland Lewis. The driver was taken to hospital for treatment of injuries, sustained in the crash.