Friday 9 September

Overcast and wet, but no wind to speak of. Quite a few boats in port today. The Froyhav and Roy Kristian are well-boats, used to transport young salmon to fish farms.



The yacht is the Cary Ali, registered in the Marshall Islands, in the middle of the Pacific.



And we even had a tall-ship in, the Soerlandet, a Norwegian training vessel.



This was, as I said, a calm day. Over the next few days, things are going to get progressively worse. Monday shows winds of force 9 to 11 on the forecast - as Katia comes to gives us an old-fashioned "winter storm", to quote the National Hurricane Center in Miami. We in Scotland get warnings from the NHC? Oh my goodness, I'd better batten down those hatches!

Thursday 8 September

Quite a reasonable day in terms of weather. Still busy monitoring no fewer than four tropical cyclones - Katia, Maria, Nate and Kulap. Dire warnings are appearing about Katia, which has the British Isles in its crosshairs for early next week. The Metcheck website had a gremlin in its forecast, warning us of 220 mph winds. Well, we do get high winds here, for sure, but not that bad.

I have started transcribing WW2 tributes from the Stornoway Gazette, which should appear on the Internet in the next week or so.It is noticeable that the rate of tributes falls off sharply as the year 1942 progresses, which shows that the RAF has won the battle of the skies, and that the U-boats are losing the battle of the seas. I have more than 100 articles to transcribe.

Hurricane update - 7 September

Approaching the apex of the hurricane season, and boy, it is heaving with tropical cyclones tonight. The Atlantic has no few than three of them.

Katia is a hurricane that is not bothering anyone at the moment, apart from some high swells on the east coast of the USA. The British Isles will see a slightly weaker version on Monday of next week; 60 knots equates to a force 11 storm.

Maria is a tropical storm with winds of 45 knots (force 9-10) in the middle of the Atlantic. She will head west and may pass over the Leeward Islands and Puerto Rico by the weekend.

Nate formed in the southwestern Gulf of Mexico, in the Bay of Campeche. A track map is not yet available, but this chap will drift north and intensify to hurricane force. Northeastern Mexico appears to be in the firing line.

Kulap is a tropical storm in the northwestern Pacific, but the forecasters are at daggers drawn over its future course. Will it head north into Korea, or west into China?

Wednesday 7 September

Another day of sunshine and showers, the latter being of the beafy variety. Later in the day, as the showers move away east, they leave behind a legacy of rainbows. This island is famous for its rainbows in spring and autumn. Talking of autumnal weather, we are on warning for some very severe weather. The long range forecasts give us winds of 65 mph, gusting to 85 mph, on Monday afternoon. The National Hurricane Center in Miami says that the remnant of Hurricane Katia will scoot just north of the Hebrides after the weekend, carrying hurricane force winds near its centre. The weekend is not going to be good, but Monday and Tuesday will be extremely bad. I am not given to refer to the weather here as either extreme or bad, but this is going to be one of those events.

I have completed my researches (as much as possible) into the witnesses who gave evidence to the Napier Commission during its sessions in the Outer Hebrides in May and June 1883. The information shows the make-up of their families, names of spouses and children, and if possible the date and circumstances of their death. I know of at least one person whose great-grandfather was a witness, 128 years ago.

If anyone wants to publish a tribute to one of the victims of 9/11, please visit the website of Project 2996. There are more than 2,100 names left without a tribute - many of them used to have one, but they were lost when people closed down their blogs. You can easily research any of those people, and even just a mention of their name would already be sufficient.

Where was I at 8.46 EDT on 11 September 2001? I was at my last place of work when the storekeeper emerged from his office with this strange look on his face. He said that planes had flown into the World Trade Center in New York. Four hours later, replays on the television brought home the horror of that day.

Tuesday 6 September

The day started very unfriendly, with lashing rain and strong winds. The gales that we were warned against did not materialise, as we were in the eye of the storm. At midday, the barometer bottomed out at 975 mbar, the rain stopped and the sun came out. As I type this, at 6pm, pressure has risen to 981 mbar as the causative low pressure system moves away east across the North Sea.

Hurricane Katia is moving steadily northwest and will pass between the USA and Bermuda over the next few days. She is not directly threatening land (apart from gales on Bermuda and an inch or two of rain there), but Katia could well threaten the British Isles in a week's time. Having transformed into an "ordinary" low pressure system, it will still be packing winds of up to 60 knots - and hurricane force is only a notch up on that, at 65 knots. I'll monitor the situation over the next few days.

I spent two hours in the library, photographing articles from the Stornoway Gazette containing tributes to servicemen from the Isle of Lewis who were lost during 1942. Towards the end of that year, the rate of the losses decreases noticeably. Although I took 109 images, I reckon it boils down to about 80 or 90 tributes. Once I have completed my current task of researching the witnesses to the Napier Commission from North Uist - 6 down, 7 to go at the moment.

Monday 5 September

Quite a boisterous day, in that there were beafy downpours and twisters reportedly trying to come down from shower clouds over the centre of the island. There was not much wind at groundlevel, which brought out the midges (scratch, scratch).

Next week, the Lewis Chessmen [Facebook link] will be back near the location where they were found back in 1831. It is their first revisit in 11 years, and there will only be a small selection of the figurines that will make it to Timsgarry, across the bay from Ardroil. The debate as to the provenance of their makers continues to rage.

Community Photo Challenge - Reflections

As Donna said, it's been a while since I took part in any of those, but you see my contribution above. Boats on the slipway on a windless day.  Contribution to the Community Photo Challenge.

Sunday 4 September

Quite a nice, sunny day, ended by a spectacular sunset just after 8pm. Sigh, we've lost 2½ hours of daylight (on the sunset side), and the equinox is only just over a fortnight away. Had an easy Sunday, reading more of the Count of Monte Cristo, a book you really need to focus on in order to keep track of all the intrigue and machinations. Quote of the day: "Disgust is even more repugnant than hatred", and that coming from a man that is all about revenge.

A campaign is underway to map the blackspots in mobile phone coverage in the islands. Said he, barely suppressing a snort of derision. When I came to Lewis, I devised this rhyme No Eitsal no signal, as the mobile phone transmitters stand on the top of Eitsal, a hill backing onto the village of Achmore.
When I was in Switzerland, I always had mobile phone coverage. Whether on top of mountains, in valleys or even in the middle of a 22 mile tunnel. The cell information even changed as the train passed underneath different villages in the mountains above. Switzerland thrives on tourism. The Western Isles are heavily dependent on tourism, yet mobile phone coverage is poor. Yes, you can get a signal in town - don't try it at the junction of Kenneth Street and Bayhead. I realise that the number of residents and tourists in the islands are nowhere near the numbers that the Swiss Alps see. But there is no excuse for this appalling state of affairs.

Saturday 3 September

Three systems keeping me busy with the tropical cyclones blog: hurricane Katia is in the Atlantic, not strengthening much because the atmosphere is not cooperating; tropical storm Lee is soaking Louisiana; and tropical storm Talas is crossing mainland Japan. Strange as though it may seem, Talas is likely to impact the future course of Katia, although the two systems are 150 degrees in longitude apart.

Here in Stornoway, it is a typical Hebridean day, with periods of rain interspersed with periods of sunshine. This morning, I met with fellow researcher Direcleit, and we spent a pleasant half hour or so comparing notes over a coffee in the An Lanntair cafe. Later on, I completed the links in my Napier Witnesses blog. I only have to look at the witnesses for North Uist and Benbecula.

I am closing this post with some pictures I took in recent days.


Sunshine and showers, 3 September


Cruiseliners Vistamar (L) and Marco Polo (R)

Cruiseliner Vistamar in Glumag Harbour

Scriptural interpretation

A minister in the Free Church of Scotland has written to his Presbytery to resign as a minister and to be deleted from the register of retired ministers. Why? Because the Free Church recently proposed to introduce hymns into the service. Until recently, hymns and musical instruments were not permitted. The Reverend Macdonald is seriously upset that, after 47 years, he feels he is forced to this move. Introducing hymns is, in his view, unscriptural and sinful. More on this link.

I respect everybody's religious convictions, and am also prepared to acknowledge that different people have different forms of worship, and that some forms may be repugnant to other people, for quite genuine reasons.

I resent, however, the fact that people are condemning each other because of differing interpretations of the Bible, which is what happens a lot. Don't forget that the Bible has been translated several times, has come down over literally thousands of years. More to the point, who on Earth does anyone think they are when they claim know exactly what was meant by our Deity when He commanded whoever to write down His Word? It is the job of a Minister of the Church to interpret the Scriptures to the best of his ability and conscience, in order that his congregation can best be helped in dealing with the major (and minor) issues of life. The form of worship, with all respect to the Reverend Macdonald, is a minor side issue to that.

The Protestant Church is infamous for its multitudes of splits and schisms, brought about by differing interpretations, and each faction defending to the hilt the notion that they have it right, and when someone doesn't agree, they are wrong. I am all for a healthy discussion. I am strongly opposed to rigidly imposed dogma - something that both Protestant and Catholic Churches are very good at.

Some 30 years ago, I was invited to a meeting, hosted by the Opus Dei organisation. They were trying to convert young students to the Roman Catholic faith, and possibly recruit them into their organisation. They did a good job at convincing me that I could not do so. I do not accept certain tenets of the RC faith (that's a personal opinion), but I have a great respect for that Church nonetheless. Some of my best friends over the years have been Orthodox Roman Catholics. But it would appear to me that the rigid dogma of the RC Church has been copied by certain sections of the Free Church of Scotland - a comparison that will not sit very well with certain members of that Church.

Friday 2 September

I just had a look at the sidebar for my blog, and everything points towards autumn. My blogoversary will be on October 8th, the Royal National Mod is on from October 15th and my "seasonal" image is from October 2007.

It shows a derelict cottage along the shores of Loch Seaforth at Airidh a'Bhruaich. The russet browns of the dying bracken are much in evidence. The weather is quite autumnal as well, with dark clouds, a little sunshine and showers. The mercury now only just manages 60F, and that will very soon be a thing of the past for this part of the world. There were two cruiseliners in, the Marco Polo (a regular visitor here, on its 3rd call this season) and the Vistamar, which felt its way into Glumag Harbour this morning. The ferry had to squeeze past both vessels at 2 o'clock this afternoon.

Earlier this year, a lady driving a car just north of Tarbert was signalled by police officers to stop. Local rumour has it that she allegedly gave them "the finger". She did not stop. The driver continued over the Clisham, into Lewis, through Balallan, Laxay, Leurbost into Stornoway, where she turned left. Traversing the Barvas Moor, then turning right at Barvas, finally pulling up at Dell. For 60 (yes, sixty) miles, she had been ignoring blue flashing lights in her rear-view mirror. The woman is due in court next month on charges of failing to stop for police, and she has pled not guilty.

Thursday 1 September

The weather today changed from bright and sunny in the morning to wet and windy just now, just after 6pm. Autumn has definitely arrived. I spent the afternoon salvaging a blog that was hosted on the website of a Dutch national newspaper. They axed their blogging service last week, and promised that a transfer to another service would be provided as of August 23rd. We are now 9 days down the line and nothing has happened. I was supposed to open a new account with the other providers - but the transfer has run into difficulties. So I've taken matters into my own hand and reconstructed the blog from Google's cache. I managed to retrieve virtually all the posts (yay!), but did get a deja-vu sensation - remember AOHell, 3 years ago?

In a few days' time, I shall meet fellow researcher Direcleit in person, after his move to Berneray this summer. He has secured a position as researcher for that island's historical society, with an extended remit to the Sound and Island of Harris. I am quite happy to continue my activities free-lance and on a voluntary basis, and am looking forward to comparing notes over a cuppa.

Wednesday 31 August

The last day of the meteorological summer, and apart from the odd afternoon shower, it wasn't a bad day. Neither was it a particularly brilliant day, as we had to do without the sun.

We have a large gas storage tank which would flatten large areas of the town if it decided to explode. So, if there is ever any real trouble, they set off an alarm. Yesterday, they tried it out. We knew it would be trialled between 10 and 11 in the morning. Did I hear it? Nope. Had to open the window to make sure I could hear it. Oh well, if ever I suddenly have a clear view of the ruins of Stornoway, I know what has happened.

I spent the afternoon completing the transcriptions of WW2 tributes from 1941, sticking them on the Tribute blog and linking everything together. Next stop: 1942.

Tuesday 30 August

An overcast day, but no rain or high winds. Summer is slowly drawing to a close here. I got myself more stamps for the Postcrossing project today, and 6 cards are winging their way to various parts of the globe.

I also visited the library to revisit the Stornoway Gazette of 1941. I take pictures of articles that I then transcribe; but the resulting pics are not always in focus. Some of the articles are quite interesting, although always very sad - bearing in mind it is tributes to the dead of the Second World War that I am interested in. One man died when his tugboat was blown up by a bomb. That happened a lot, but this occurred in a dock in Glasgow. During the Clydeside blitz of 1941, a bomb had plunged into a dock, but not exploded. It decided to detonate just when a tugboat was over it. This was literally blown out of the water. One man saved himself by shinning up the mast as quickly as the boat went down, and he was saved the moment he reached the top of the mast. Instrumental in the rescue of many crewmen were "coloured seamen" from a nearby merchant ship.

I think that the name Irene will be withdrawn by the WMO (World Meteorological Organisation) from the lists of Atlantic tropical cyclones. Although Irene did not carry extreme winds, she did carry extreme amounts of rain. After being downgraded from hurricane to tropical storm, the water that had powered the cyclone came down to earth with a vengeance. The imagery from New England is breathtaking - in the negative sense of the word.

Monday 29 August

Although the day started fairly bright, we were plagued by showers through the afternoon. And we have lost our "summer warmth": only 13C today. The ferry had to cancel its return crossing from Ullapool yesterday, and did not return until lunchtime today. There was a large amount of traffic to catch up on, and this evening it was an hour late coming back to Stornoway.

I have recorded all 26 episodes of The World at War, but I can only watch one episode at a time - too depressing. However, it is the best documentary on the Second World War, a topic I take an active interest in. Today, I transcribed more of the tributes from the Stornoway Gazette from 1941 to islanders who fell in that conflict.

St Kilda

It is 81 years ago today that the last inhabitants of St Kilda were evacuated from their isle, situated 40 miles west of North Uist in the Outer Hebrides. Life had become untenable, when supplies could only be landed during the summer months. The islanders were also susceptible to illnesses, brought ashore by visitors. Until the late 19th century, there was a very high infant mortality rate, attributed to poor hygiene practices around newborns.

On 29 August 1930, the islanders of Hiort were taken to Lochaline, in the Morvern peninsula, and then on to Glasgow. Some stayed on at Lochaline, to work in forestry - an irony, coming as they did from a treeless island. The island has remained without permanent habitation. Some of the houses were left with a pile of grain on the table and the family Bible open at the book of Exodus.

I have only seen St Kilda from North Uist, on a clear day in summer. It is supposed to be visible from Mangersta, but the distance is 60 miles. The culture of the island was taken away by its people in 1930, and has been recorded assiduously. This may now be congregated at the St Kilda Centre, pencilled for a location between Mangersta and Islivig. It has been argued that a more sympathetic approach from central government in the early 20th century could have saved St Kilda for habitation. Maybe so. But it would have destroyed the unique culture, which came about through its sheer isolation.

Today, my thoughts lie 90 miles to the westsouthwest of Stornoway. The Hiorteachs have gone - their island remains.


Image courtesy Flickr-user iancowe

Libya and Lockerbie

Libya's ousted dictator, Muammar Gaddafi, has indicated to the rebels that he wants to talk about forming a new government. I don't think he's quite grasping the state of affairs in his country. He is out, and will never be able to come back in any capacity. This evening's film footage of charred corpses at various locations across Tripoli would be enough reason in itself. Not to mention the 50,000 prisoners that are unaccounted for. These were people that were arrested following the start of the uprising on 17 February this year.

The transitional government of Libya (TNC), which has now taken over from Gaddafi, has refused point-blank to even consider extraditing Abdelbaset al-Megrahi. He is the sole man ever convicted over the bombing of PanAm flight 103 over Lockerbie on 21 December 1988. Al-Megrahi was jailed in Scotland, but released on compassionate grounds two years ago. He was suffering from terminal cancer, and given only three months to live. To the embarrassment of the Scottish Government, Al-Megrahi is still alive - although looking very gaunt. This weekend, the TNC announced that it would never extradite the Lockerbie bomber to either the UK or USA. And why should they? Al-Megrahi has been tried, found guilty and sentenced. He has been released on license, sent home to die. By law, you cannot be tried twice for the same offence, unless new evidence comes to light. The Americans agreed to have Al-Megrahi put to trial the way he was, a decade ago. So I agree with the TNC that Al-Megrahi can stay in Libya. To die.

Sunday 28 August

A cold, grey and initially wet day. We did not get above 11C / 52F all day, with a cold and strong northwesterly wind blowing. The ferry sailed to Ullapool this afternoon, but is not coming back tonight, meaning that the 7 am sailing from Stornoway is off as well.

Tropical cyclone Irene passed over Times Square in New York at 9 am (local time) this morning, turning the barometer down to 966 mbar. It was below hurricane strength, although it was still packing some nasty winds on its eastern flank. Storm surge flooding did occur in the centre of the city, but all in all, Irene's impact appears to have been not as severe as initially feared. As I type (just after midday EDT), the circulation around the cyclone shows up quite nicely on the windmapper site. The highest winds, on Mount Washington, are "only" 53 mph - that's still a force 10 in my book. Elsewhere, the storm appears to be spinning down at severe gale force. Irene will be turning into an extra-tropical depression as it scoots away northeast over Labrador and out towards Greenland and Iceland.

Saturday 27 August

A fairly bright day, but the wind rose steadily through the day. Sitting outside was therefore no longer an option. We are on warning for high winds tomorrow, but the worst of it appears to be making for the mainland and the Northern Isles.


We once more have a cruiseliner in port, the Ocean Countess. Her passengers flock ashore, but wise to the extortionate coachtours they head for the service bus. However, local people and other tourists also want to go to Callanish, so it's handbags at lunchtime for a place on W2.

I'm monitoring the progression of Hurricane Irene up the East Coast of the US, and the main problem appears to be rain. The NHC is forecasting up to 20 inches, which is not an amount anyone wants to have within 24 hours. Another two tropical systems: typhoon Nanmadol is battering the north of the Philippines, and tropical storm Talas is creeping north - with Japan in its crosshairs.

Friday 26 August

A very nice day, with plenty of sunshine in the afternoon. It was quite warm in the sun, and lunch was had outside. The birds too took full advantage of the sunny weather, for you never know how long it is going to last round here. Fortunately, we have had quite a reasonable spell of weather here this month, and I'm not one to complain about temperatures in the upper teens (celsius) in the islands.



This week, we shall see three different cruiseliners in port. The Saga Ruby was in yesterday, today it is the Athena. Tomorrow, we'll have the Ocean Countess. It's all good business, and I hope the Visitor Centre at Callanish will have its water supply on - in recent times, they have had frequent outages on their water supply, and as the manager said on local news: "It's impossible to serve coffee and tea without water". Yep, I'd second that.


Athena