Saturday, 10 October 2009
Front picture
I have once more changed the picture, heading this blog, to an image I took last Wednesday during a visit to Bosta Beach in Great Bernera. What is littering the beach is seaweed, torn loose in recent gales. The island in the distance is called Old Hill, which can be seen from near the Butt of Lewis, some 35 miles to the northeast.
70 years ago - this Tuesday
On 13 October 1939, the Royal Navy's HMS Royal Oak, at anchor in Scapa Flow, Orkney, was struck by four torpedoes from German submarine U-47. The first torpedo did no major damage when it struck just before 1 am. The last three torpedoes, fired at 1.16 am, proved fatal. Within 13 minutes, Royal Oak turned turtle and went to the bottom, taking 833 crew with her. She currently still lies in 100 feet of water, upside down, reaching 5 metres / 17 feet below the surface of the water. The site is marked by a green wreck buoy and has been marked as a wargrave.
Tomorrow, the 70th anniversary of this tragedy will be remembered in Orkney's main town, Kirkwall. Last year, I visited Orkney and called in at the Royal Oak memorial ashore at Scapa, near the local Coastguard Station. I'll share some of the pictures I took at the time, dedicating this entry to the memory of all those lost there in 1939.
The wreckbuoy
Tomorrow, the 70th anniversary of this tragedy will be remembered in Orkney's main town, Kirkwall. Last year, I visited Orkney and called in at the Royal Oak memorial ashore at Scapa, near the local Coastguard Station. I'll share some of the pictures I took at the time, dedicating this entry to the memory of all those lost there in 1939.
The wreckbuoy
Appeal to those across the pond
I relay an appeal by Dr Jeff Masters, who writes a blog on tropical cyclones (hurricanes etc.). He is warning that a satellite which provides crucial data on forecasting tropical cyclones, QuikSCAT, is about to fail. The satellite measures windspeeds and direction at the earth's surface, and has been in action for 10 years, well beyond its 2-3 year lifespan. If the funding cycle is initiated now, a replacement satellite could be in orbit by 2015. QuikSCAT's data save $135m a year in costs for shipping etc.
If you are in the USA and read this, please take the time to head over to Dr Masters' blog and get in touch with your local Senator to urge them to vote against a senate amendment, which would see a $172m cut in NOAA's budget to be diverted to law enforcement.
Please relay.
If you are in the USA and read this, please take the time to head over to Dr Masters' blog and get in touch with your local Senator to urge them to vote against a senate amendment, which would see a $172m cut in NOAA's budget to be diverted to law enforcement.
Please relay.
Saturday 10 October
Fairly bright in Stornoway this morning, with some drizzle on and off. Some light showers show on the rainfall radar out in the Atlantic. It looks as if our temperatures are on a slow downward slope (what do you expect in autumn).
A search is continuing on the Isle of Skye, south of here, for a man of 83 who has been missing since October 3rd. Clifford Wannop went for a walk in the Kinloch area of Skye, about 6 miles south of Broadford, and has not returned. Mr Wannop, pictured on this BBC link, is described as fit and active for his age, giving the impression of a man in his sixties rather than his eighties. Kinloch is a hilly, wooded area, bordering on the Sound of Sleat, which separates Skye from the Scottish mainland. There are several walking trails in the area, one leading to a deserted village (Leitir Fura), and one other going the 8 miles northeast to Kyle Rhea. Three regional mountain rescue teams will conduct a thorough search today, Saturday.
A northern bottle-nosed whale, which had become stuck in Loch Linnhe near Fort William, has died. A huge rescue effort had been mounted all week to try to coax the cetacean out to the open sea. At one stage, underwater recordings of the sounds of a killer whale were played to try to get the whale to move away. It did not manage to get past the Narrows of Corran, which would have allowed it to proceed to open waters.
A search is continuing on the Isle of Skye, south of here, for a man of 83 who has been missing since October 3rd. Clifford Wannop went for a walk in the Kinloch area of Skye, about 6 miles south of Broadford, and has not returned. Mr Wannop, pictured on this BBC link, is described as fit and active for his age, giving the impression of a man in his sixties rather than his eighties. Kinloch is a hilly, wooded area, bordering on the Sound of Sleat, which separates Skye from the Scottish mainland. There are several walking trails in the area, one leading to a deserted village (Leitir Fura), and one other going the 8 miles northeast to Kyle Rhea. Three regional mountain rescue teams will conduct a thorough search today, Saturday.
A northern bottle-nosed whale, which had become stuck in Loch Linnhe near Fort William, has died. A huge rescue effort had been mounted all week to try to coax the cetacean out to the open sea. At one stage, underwater recordings of the sounds of a killer whale were played to try to get the whale to move away. It did not manage to get past the Narrows of Corran, which would have allowed it to proceed to open waters.
Friday, 9 October 2009
From the archives: Saturday 9 October 2004
A perfect autumn day. Crisp, cool, practically windless. Skye looked perfect in the morning sun, as I took the bus down to Broadford, and then on to Armadale. I just could not get enough of the magnificent landscapes along the 27 miles to the ferry terminal. Coruisk came in on time at 11.40 and left 5 minutes later. It's been called all sorts of unfriendly names, like an 'inverted flowerpot'. On one of its first journeys, it lost a propellor on rocks in Mallaig harbour, in August 2003. But it chugged across the Sound of Sleat in 23 minutes, and offered the familiar view up to Isle Ornsay, Sandaig Islands to the north and Eigg and Rum to the southwest. After two hours of dawdling through Mallaig, Lochnevis entered the harbour and embarkation began. The couple that I met yesterday at Strathaird was on board, following my glowing endorsement of the 7 hour round trip. I talked them through the first 75 minutes to Eigg. On arrival, at 3.20, my host, Marie, was waiting on the pier, also to collect her daughter on half-term hols. The ferry waited 20 minutes, doing nothing, until formal departure time came. I sat in the jeep to be driven the 100-200 yards to An Laimhrig, the Anchorage. This is the teashop/craftshop/general store building at the end of the new pier. Check out the Isle of Eigg website www.isleofeigg.org for further details. Having bought a can of coke, I speedmarched off up Pier Hill towards the Lodge and Galmisdale. The low autumn sun lit everything up in a way I had never seen in the 15 years of coming to the island. It was, again, a perfect afternoon. I continued up the hill, to Galmisdale, with its glaringly red roof. Then further along to Grulin, where I went as far as the Bothy, 1 1/2 miles in. I sat in the sun, looking out over the water to the Isles of Muck, Coll, Mull and the Dutchman's Cap and Staffa. At 5.15, I decided to head back. Temperatures started to drop, and I was glad to reach Kildonan, where I was going to stay for the next few days.
Kyleakin
Lodge gardens, Isle of Eigg
Grulin, Isle of Eigg; An Sgurr in the centre
Kyleakin
Lodge gardens, Isle of Eigg
Grulin, Isle of Eigg; An Sgurr in the centre
Eigg and chips
That is the title of an excellent article on the BBC News website about the island of Eigg, situated about 90 miles south of Stornoway, 15 miles southwest of Mallaig off the coast of western Scotland. The islanders have gone from strength to strength since they gained ownership of Eigg in June 1997. Before that, they had suffered 30 years of maverick landlords who were only interested in the place as a playground or tax dodge. Said lairds were not prepared to make substantial improvements to the island. So, since June 1997, the islanders have done it themselves. In February 2008, they went live with a 24/7 electricity grid, after having to rely on capricious diesel generators for decades. Three windturbines, a handful of hydro-electric schemes, photo-voltaic cells - you name it they have it. And now the Eiggeachs want us all to join in. I can just about see them winning this Big Green Challenge for which they are shortlisted.
I have supported the islanders of Eigg for over a decade. And continue to do so. Go for it, guys!
I have supported the islanders of Eigg for over a decade. And continue to do so. Go for it, guys!
Lost at sea
Over the past years, I have been relaying a long list of incidents at sea, sometimes with a tragic outcome. The latter is likely in the latest accident. This morning, at around 4.30, a crewmember fell overboard from a creelboat, the Kirkwall registered Noronya some 15 miles northwest of mainland Orkney. The man did not wear a lifevest or survival suit. A coastguard spokesman said the expected time of survival in seas of 10°C was a few hours. We are now nearly 12 hours down the line, and still no word. A search continues, with lifeboats, the naval vessel HMS Bangor and other fishing vessels.
Friday 9 October
An overcast day, with occasional rain since midday, accompanied by strong winds. These could strengthen to galeforce, according to the forecast.
Between 11 and 12 this morning, I was watching the service in St Paul's Cathedral, London, to commemorate the 179 British service personnel who died in the war in Iraq. The service marked the end of the British involvement in that conflict. Although I missed part of the address by the Archbishop of Canterbury, I'll go so far as to say that I probably agree with what he had to say on the matter.
With the benefit of hindsight, it is always easy to say what went wrong and how it could have been handled better. The war was commenced on the orders of politicians, and executed to the best of their abilities by the armed forces. The most positive outcome was the removal of Saddam Hussein from power, within a few weeks. The subsequent mayhem did show up the Achilles heel of going in guns blazing without a thought for the future. This was very much a Bush war, with George W. finishing off the job his daddy never finished in 1991. It is a commendation for the soldiers who were ordered in to do this dirty work that they did so professionally. It is a good thing that the home front rallied round to support. The war in Iraq was based on a faulty premise, namely the presence of weapons of mass destruction, which turned out to be a weapon of mass delusion. But this is all hindsight. The deed was done, a regime change was effected. When will we see a similar ceremony for the boys, home from Afghanistan, or more to the point, not coming home? I don't want to think about that. It might not be in the lifetime of the current British monarch.
I have a lot more time for George W. Bush's successor, Barack H. Obama. But I did not believe my ears this morning when I learned that he had been awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. What for?? What substantive achievement has Obama chalked up, other than going round talking to people and talking to people and talking to people. For goodness sakes, there won't be a donkey left with its hind legs on where that man has been and gone. I think it is too early - and I'm not the only one with that opinion.
Between 11 and 12 this morning, I was watching the service in St Paul's Cathedral, London, to commemorate the 179 British service personnel who died in the war in Iraq. The service marked the end of the British involvement in that conflict. Although I missed part of the address by the Archbishop of Canterbury, I'll go so far as to say that I probably agree with what he had to say on the matter.
With the benefit of hindsight, it is always easy to say what went wrong and how it could have been handled better. The war was commenced on the orders of politicians, and executed to the best of their abilities by the armed forces. The most positive outcome was the removal of Saddam Hussein from power, within a few weeks. The subsequent mayhem did show up the Achilles heel of going in guns blazing without a thought for the future. This was very much a Bush war, with George W. finishing off the job his daddy never finished in 1991. It is a commendation for the soldiers who were ordered in to do this dirty work that they did so professionally. It is a good thing that the home front rallied round to support. The war in Iraq was based on a faulty premise, namely the presence of weapons of mass destruction, which turned out to be a weapon of mass delusion. But this is all hindsight. The deed was done, a regime change was effected. When will we see a similar ceremony for the boys, home from Afghanistan, or more to the point, not coming home? I don't want to think about that. It might not be in the lifetime of the current British monarch.
I have a lot more time for George W. Bush's successor, Barack H. Obama. But I did not believe my ears this morning when I learned that he had been awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. What for?? What substantive achievement has Obama chalked up, other than going round talking to people and talking to people and talking to people. For goodness sakes, there won't be a donkey left with its hind legs on where that man has been and gone. I think it is too early - and I'm not the only one with that opinion.
Thursday, 8 October 2009
From the archives: Friday 8 October 2004
Today is the 5th anniversary of my blogging activities. Although I have been reposting entries from before 8 October 2004, I added those diary entries later on. It was on that date that I sat down at the communal computer in the youth hostel at Kyleakin, Skye (now closed) and wrote:
Once again in the Youth Hostel at Kyleakin. Strange day today. As I was waiting for the usual 10.20 bus to Broadford, I noticed two young people getting into the water of the Kyle. It was a bracingly cool morning. Bright and sunny, but rather nippy. And there were two youngsters getting into the water and going right in! The female appeared to be skinny dipping, oh dear. At Broadford, I proceeded to the Elgol postbus, where the driver was huffing and puffing to get all the mail, the milk, the papers, the everything on board. It wasn't until 11 o'clock that we finally got going. I had meanwhile come to chat to an elderly lady on the bus, who was quite knowledgeable. She lived at Elgol, which I was not going to reach. My destination was the little path just south of Strathaird across to Camasunary. But, that was not for another 75 minutes. The driver complained that he was a Jack of all Trades but master of none. On arrival at Torrin, we dumped mail not just in postboxes, but through open windows, on top of a baby's playpen, in dustbins, disused freezers, and little homemade boxes at the side of the road, marked 1/2 7. Meaning, half of number 7. It was all good fun, and we duly arrived at Strathaird at 12.15. Fifty minutes late. The path to Camasunary was well boggy at first, and stony afterwards. The views are stunning, and I'll add pictures when I get hold of them. I did not go very far, since I would not want to miss the return bus at 5pm. Bla Bheinn (Blaven), Beinn na Cro and the backdrop of Loch Slapin, Loch Eishort, Sleat, Suisnish and the distant mountains on the mainland dominated the backdrop on the ascent. At 1pm I was at the pass, alt. 189m, and my jaw dropped. The massive curve of the Cuillins' main ridge, forestalled by Sgurr na Stri, Camasunary. To the south all the Small Isles were visible, Eigg, Muck, Rum and Canna. Just to the right of the Cuillins the Isle of Soay could be seen. And on the horizon the double hump of Barra and the ridge of South Uist. A very sad cairn announced the location where the ashes of a cheif (sic) constable of Inverness-shire had been scattered by his daughter. Hers had been scattered in the same location 5 years later. A fantastic piece of scenery. Hobbling back to the main road, where I had to wait an hour for the bus back to Broadford. Fortunately, a couple from Israel/USA were also waiting, so we passed the time in pleasant chat, although the temperature was dropping like a stone.
Skye Cuillins
Rum and Soay
Bla Bheinn and memorial cairn
Once again in the Youth Hostel at Kyleakin. Strange day today. As I was waiting for the usual 10.20 bus to Broadford, I noticed two young people getting into the water of the Kyle. It was a bracingly cool morning. Bright and sunny, but rather nippy. And there were two youngsters getting into the water and going right in! The female appeared to be skinny dipping, oh dear. At Broadford, I proceeded to the Elgol postbus, where the driver was huffing and puffing to get all the mail, the milk, the papers, the everything on board. It wasn't until 11 o'clock that we finally got going. I had meanwhile come to chat to an elderly lady on the bus, who was quite knowledgeable. She lived at Elgol, which I was not going to reach. My destination was the little path just south of Strathaird across to Camasunary. But, that was not for another 75 minutes. The driver complained that he was a Jack of all Trades but master of none. On arrival at Torrin, we dumped mail not just in postboxes, but through open windows, on top of a baby's playpen, in dustbins, disused freezers, and little homemade boxes at the side of the road, marked 1/2 7. Meaning, half of number 7. It was all good fun, and we duly arrived at Strathaird at 12.15. Fifty minutes late. The path to Camasunary was well boggy at first, and stony afterwards. The views are stunning, and I'll add pictures when I get hold of them. I did not go very far, since I would not want to miss the return bus at 5pm. Bla Bheinn (Blaven), Beinn na Cro and the backdrop of Loch Slapin, Loch Eishort, Sleat, Suisnish and the distant mountains on the mainland dominated the backdrop on the ascent. At 1pm I was at the pass, alt. 189m, and my jaw dropped. The massive curve of the Cuillins' main ridge, forestalled by Sgurr na Stri, Camasunary. To the south all the Small Isles were visible, Eigg, Muck, Rum and Canna. Just to the right of the Cuillins the Isle of Soay could be seen. And on the horizon the double hump of Barra and the ridge of South Uist. A very sad cairn announced the location where the ashes of a cheif (sic) constable of Inverness-shire had been scattered by his daughter. Hers had been scattered in the same location 5 years later. A fantastic piece of scenery. Hobbling back to the main road, where I had to wait an hour for the bus back to Broadford. Fortunately, a couple from Israel/USA were also waiting, so we passed the time in pleasant chat, although the temperature was dropping like a stone.
Skye Cuillins
Rum and Soay
Bla Bheinn and memorial cairn
Thursday 8 October
A better day than yesterday, with only scattered, light showers. Not the huge downpours that plagued us through the afternoon on Wednesday. The wind is expected to pick up again by the end of the day.
One of my sources for local news is a website called Hebrides News, and its attendant letters column. The news is pretty good, the letters column an opportunity for all and sundry to vent their spleen and hold forth on their pet hates. A local letter writer is going to be taken to court for all his bother, after he criticised a candidate for the General Election. More here. Just goes to show, there can't be much wrong with the place if that is headline news. After the people having to be cut out of crashed cars and megasized fishfarms.
Regionally, the story of the plane that wasn't properly de-iced and had to be diverted to another airport drew my attention. In April 2008, an aircraft took off from Aberdeen in freezing conditions, only to find it was losing control. It was diverted to Wick, in the far north of Scotland, where temperatures were higher. The ice melted naturally. More here.
One of my sources for local news is a website called Hebrides News, and its attendant letters column. The news is pretty good, the letters column an opportunity for all and sundry to vent their spleen and hold forth on their pet hates. A local letter writer is going to be taken to court for all his bother, after he criticised a candidate for the General Election. More here. Just goes to show, there can't be much wrong with the place if that is headline news. After the people having to be cut out of crashed cars and megasized fishfarms.
Regionally, the story of the plane that wasn't properly de-iced and had to be diverted to another airport drew my attention. In April 2008, an aircraft took off from Aberdeen in freezing conditions, only to find it was losing control. It was diverted to Wick, in the far north of Scotland, where temperatures were higher. The ice melted naturally. More here.
Wednesday, 7 October 2009
Wednesday 7 October
A cold day, with bright intervals and heavy showers, quite a few with hail. Temperature managed double figures, but is presently at 6C. Went out by car to Great Bernera, 25 miles west of Stornoway as had not visited that place for over a year. Bernera is a relatively small island, just off the west coast of Lewis, quite rocky and with a very scenic, rocky shoreline. Visited Bosta Beach, on the northern shore of Bernera, and the adjacent cemetery where I discovered another dozen war-related gravestones.
Road hazards
Downpour outside Breaclete
Valasay
Tobson
Bosta
Road hazards
Downpour outside Breaclete
Valasay
Tobson
Bosta
Tuesday, 6 October 2009
Tuesday 6 October
Occasional showers passing through this morning, but also sunny intervals. The changeable weather continues. Further south, the remains of tropical storm Grace are approaching the southwest of Ireland, now part of a frontal system extending south from a low pressure system near the Faeroes. It's October, and we'll know it.
More later
More later
Monday, 5 October 2009
From the archives: Monday 4 October 2004
Today's weather is a little better than at the weekend, but still very showery. I take the 10.20 bus to Broadford and alight at the bottom of the road to Heast. This is a settlement 5 miles south of Broadford on the shore of Loch Eishort. Six years ago, I walked up this road a little way, but I'm now up for the whole hog. Not a terribly inspiring route, but the approach into Heast is nice. The village is only 2 miles east of Boreraig, but it's not possible to find a route. Right by the seashore, a fishing pier with a lot of fishboxes and the stench of diesel. Across the harbour lies Heast Island. I tried to walk east, parallel to the shore, which was tricky. Going west, to Boreraig was a signposted route. Unfortunately, following the heavy rain of the last few days, the Heast River was in spate and could not be crossed. Thwarted on both sides, I could only retrace my steps up the road.There is a nice view once you crest the highest point, at 200 m / 675ft. It ranges from the Red Cuillins in the west to Scalpay, the islands in the Inner Sound and the hills between Kyle and Applecross. I wanted to make things interesting by cutting cross Braigh Skulamus, from gridreference NG660206. This path was fine, until it got wetter and wetter, the closer I got to Harrapool. Nipped into one of the local hotels for a bite to eat, then started to look round for a shop selling boots.There was an outdoor shop next to a veterinary surgery. Have to be careful not to go into the wrong door there. In the hotel, the barman was sanding and revarnishing his bar. Had a general look round the village before returning to the Coop. This provided me with tonight's dinner. Went back to Kyleakin on the bus at 4. There is a restauran tacross the road from the hostel, and I went in there to check out the food. At one point, I joined a family for dinner who were also in the hostel. Nice convivial evening. In this restaurant you serve yourself. Food good, no atmosphere. It's the King Haakon bar. Kyleakin is the Kyle (Narrows) of Haakon. So no Ky-lea-kin please, it's Kyle-akin. Still noisy pipes in the hostel. It offers Internet access, a TV-room. I sit in the dining area and offer people advice on the district. Am I a walking tourist office, or what?
Who is who?
Researching the two Rolls of Honour for the Isle of Lewis yielded a strange piece of confusion. Although I have requested assistance from the Historical Societies for Uig and East Loch Roag, I do not expect this to be cleared up anytime soon.
The two servicemen pictured below are both described as John Macleod from 1 Enaclete and Finlay Maclean from 36 Breasclete.
1916 Roll of Honour
1921 Roll of Honour
1916 Roll of Honour
1921 Roll of Honour
The two servicemen pictured below are both described as John Macleod from 1 Enaclete and Finlay Maclean from 36 Breasclete.
1916 Roll of Honour
1921 Roll of Honour
1916 Roll of Honour
1921 Roll of Honour
Tropical storm Grace
In amongst the high powered drama being acted out in the northwestern Pacific, tropical storm Grace nearly slipped under the radar. This is a system which is located 575 miles southwest of Cork, Ireland and rapidly heading north to northeast. Because it is over waters of 18C, it is not expected to live long as a tropical cyclone, which requires water of 26C / 80F or warmer to be sustained. Nonetheless, I am extremely wary of tropical systems making it as far north as this; in 2007, a system called Gordon brought force 11 stormforce winds to the Irish Sea. In 1987, the remnant of Hurricane Charlie brought an unexpected hurricane to the southcoast of England as it sped up the English Channel.
I copy my entry from my Tropical Cyclones blog - I have noted the line "Threatened landmasses" as NONE; by the time Grace reaches any land, it will be part of a frontal system.
Tropical storm Grace / 09L
Warning 03 from NHC for 1500 GMT
Position 45.4N 16.4W
Location 575 miles SW of Cork, Ireland
Movement NNE at 28 knots
Maximum sustained windspeeds 55 knots
Maximum gusts 70 knots
Winds of 34 knots or higher occur within 70 miles to the south of the centre
Threatened landmasses NONE
Next update 2100 GMT
I copy my entry from my Tropical Cyclones blog - I have noted the line "Threatened landmasses" as NONE; by the time Grace reaches any land, it will be part of a frontal system.
Tropical storm Grace / 09L
Warning 03 from NHC for 1500 GMT
Position 45.4N 16.4W
Location 575 miles SW of Cork, Ireland
Movement NNE at 28 knots
Maximum sustained windspeeds 55 knots
Maximum gusts 70 knots
Winds of 34 knots or higher occur within 70 miles to the south of the centre
Threatened landmasses NONE
Next update 2100 GMT
Monday 5 October
Fairly bright today after a very chilly start; the mercury went down to only just above freezing through the night. Up at 11C / 52F as I type.
It is 10 years ago today that a fatal train crash at Ladbrooke Grove, a few miles west of Paddington Station in London, claimed 31 lives and injured more than 400 others. An outbound local service had failed to note a red signal, and moved into the path of an incoming express, which was travelling at high speed. Although both drivers applied brakes, the trains collided with a combined speed of 80 mph. The collision was followed by a fierce fire, in which a large number of the dead perished. Both trains were diesel powered. At 8.11 am this morning, survivors and relatives of the deceased gathered at the memorial at Paddington.Two other rail disasters followed within 5 years: in October 2000, the Intercity from King's Cross to Leeds left the tracks outside Hatfield, Hertfordshire, due to a broken rail, claiming 4 lives. The eerie thing for me personally was that I had travelled on the same service, the 12.00 to Leeds, exactly a week before. Two years later, a train derailed at Potter's Bar, not far from Hatfield. The deathtoll here was 7.
It is 10 years ago today that a fatal train crash at Ladbrooke Grove, a few miles west of Paddington Station in London, claimed 31 lives and injured more than 400 others. An outbound local service had failed to note a red signal, and moved into the path of an incoming express, which was travelling at high speed. Although both drivers applied brakes, the trains collided with a combined speed of 80 mph. The collision was followed by a fierce fire, in which a large number of the dead perished. Both trains were diesel powered. At 8.11 am this morning, survivors and relatives of the deceased gathered at the memorial at Paddington.Two other rail disasters followed within 5 years: in October 2000, the Intercity from King's Cross to Leeds left the tracks outside Hatfield, Hertfordshire, due to a broken rail, claiming 4 lives. The eerie thing for me personally was that I had travelled on the same service, the 12.00 to Leeds, exactly a week before. Two years later, a train derailed at Potter's Bar, not far from Hatfield. The deathtoll here was 7.
Sunday, 4 October 2009
Boreraig and Suisnish
Boreraig and Suisnish were once communities in their own right, and my visit there was related to my interest in the history of Western Scotland. Both townships were cleared in the 19th century, and the villagers forced to abandoned home and hearth. Lock, stock and barrel, they had to load up and march east. The landowner did not give a damn what happened to the people. His land was now void of people, and he could do as he liked. The evictees meanwhile were trekking across rough country to Heast and on to Drumfearn. Their first night was spent on the bank of the Eishort River, in cold and wretched conditions.
My visit to Boreraig and Suisnish, in pretty awful weather conditions, was pitched in low mood on account of their history. The sad ruins stand as a memorial to those that were cast off in desultory fashion. Read David Craig's On the Crofters' Trail for the heart wrenching stories behind the Highland Clearances.
My visit to Boreraig and Suisnish, in pretty awful weather conditions, was pitched in low mood on account of their history. The sad ruins stand as a memorial to those that were cast off in desultory fashion. Read David Craig's On the Crofters' Trail for the heart wrenching stories behind the Highland Clearances.
From the archives: Saturday 2 and Sunday 3 October 2004
Saturday 2 October 2004
Come downstairs to be met by the sight of a distracted warden who is taking all the hot water taps apart. Apparently, a new boiler was installed only recently, but it isn't working properly. Book into hostel for the weekend, then go on the bus to Broadford at 10.20. Fifteen minutes later, I'm dropped off outside the Post Office there.Walk over to the Post Office van marked Elgol, and jump on. I ask to bedropped off at Kilchrist, 4 miles southwest of Broadford. It's a bit of a tight squeeze on board, but that isn't going to be for a long time at any rate. Dropped off a few hundred yards beyond the church, near the reed covered Kilchrist Loch. Find the track that is supposed to lead to Suisnish on the coast, south of here. This is a derilict village, cleared of its inhabitants in the 19th century, together with its neighbour Boreraig. My efforts to reach Suisnish along this path are thwarted by some appalling weather. A shower kicks off, leaving me to dash for relative shelter amidst the ruins of Kilchrist village. There is a strong westerly wind, blowing the showers over the nearby Beinn na Cailleach. Once that has passed, I continue on my way, but I lose track of the path. Find myself scrabbling on the banks of the Allt na Inbhire, trying to cross. Well, I give that up as a bad job after half an hour, and make my way cross-country to the Marble Line walkway. This used to be a railway carrying marble from the quarry up the hillside to the pier at Broadford. It closed suddenly at 1912. This path is well maintained and signposted. After a gate, it worsens slightly to a rough hillpath. Crossing the fence at Loch Lonachan is troublesome because of standing water. This continues to be a nuisance, not helped by frequent heavy showers. The valley opens out, and I duly arrive into what I thought was Suisnish. How wrong can you be. After checking my bearings against various landmarks and their relative position, I have to concede that I am 2 miles out and actually in the enclosure of Boreraig. Wander through the sad remains of that village (pictured above, courtesy Flickr-user Deano-T) and try to eat something in the pouring rain. Carry on as far as the Boreraig River, then turn back.Get a massive scare outside the village, when I'm taking a break at 12.52. As I look northeast, I see a fierce blob of light. About 2 seconds later, a deafening crash follows. I'm in the middle of a thunderstorm and there is NO shelter. I wait for the storm to move away, crouching down, then go on my way north.
Once I rejoin the Marble Line path (pictured, courtesy Flickr-user Robinvanmourik, I feel like a train, going at 4 mph. Pass above some of the houses near Kilchrist, then the branch which leads to Coire Chatachan, below Beinn na Cailleach. The path finally ends under the high voltage power line,where I have to divert to the road. Do some shopping at the Broadford Co-op, then join the 6pm bus back to Kyleakin. The YH is still plagued by pipe trouble. Have a nice chat with other hostellers. One couple offer me a lift over to Broadford tomorrow, Sunday. This gives me the chance to do the walk to Boreraig and Suisnish properly. Weather prospects also appear to be better.
Sunday 3 October
After breakfast I was taken to Broadford, so that at 10 a.m., I was already heading down the Marble Line path again. Fairly bright day, and the path had had a chance to dry out. The crossing of the stile presented no big problems, and at midday I was back at Boreraig. Had a bit to eat, then resumed the trek at 12.20. The only thing was that by now, a big wall of grey had moved in from the west. After passing through Boreraig, the path became a narrow and precarious affair through rock and stone. Had to encourage sheep to move out of my way.It meanwhile started to rain with gusto, which made the path all the more hazardous. Due south of Carn Dearg, the path went up a crazily steep incline. With a little bit of handiwork, I arrived on the clifftop above Suisnish at 1.25. The view, for as much as there was, switched round to one of Strathaird and Loch Slapin. I found out yesterday that my boots were knackered. They are letting in water by the bucketfull, and I'm beginning to feel chilly. The passage through Suisnish (pictured, courtesy Flickr user blackpuddinonabike) is absolutely sodden. The path leads above the present-dayfarm buildings, then veers north. I slowly progress towards the road-end at Camas Malag. At 2.15, I encounter an elderly couple who want to go to Suisnish and ask me how far it is. Fifty minutes. I was a bit concerned because of their unsuitable footwear. Did not comment on that to their faces though. Arrived at Camas Malag at 2.30, and sat down on a hill just north of the road end. The rain had relented and was now showery. After half an hour, I carried on to the main road at Kilbride. This leads past a marble quarry, with the showers still going on. From that point, I had to walk along the B8083 Elgol - Broadford road. Not much of a bother because of light traffic. It just got alittle hairy along Loch Kilchrist, as I didn't have a lot of leeway, and the road runs along the loch shore. At Kilchrist, I cut through the wilderness to the Marble Line Path. I did not fancy a 3 mile roadwalk. It's a bit of a chore, and have to jump barbed wire, but I gain the path. Sit under a bridge to avoid a shower, then head north down the now-familiar curves of the Marble Line. At Broadford, I discover a dead sheep at the point where the path goes back to the road. From the village, I nip back to Kyleakin by Citylink bus.
Come downstairs to be met by the sight of a distracted warden who is taking all the hot water taps apart. Apparently, a new boiler was installed only recently, but it isn't working properly. Book into hostel for the weekend, then go on the bus to Broadford at 10.20. Fifteen minutes later, I'm dropped off outside the Post Office there.Walk over to the Post Office van marked Elgol, and jump on. I ask to bedropped off at Kilchrist, 4 miles southwest of Broadford. It's a bit of a tight squeeze on board, but that isn't going to be for a long time at any rate. Dropped off a few hundred yards beyond the church, near the reed covered Kilchrist Loch. Find the track that is supposed to lead to Suisnish on the coast, south of here. This is a derilict village, cleared of its inhabitants in the 19th century, together with its neighbour Boreraig. My efforts to reach Suisnish along this path are thwarted by some appalling weather. A shower kicks off, leaving me to dash for relative shelter amidst the ruins of Kilchrist village. There is a strong westerly wind, blowing the showers over the nearby Beinn na Cailleach. Once that has passed, I continue on my way, but I lose track of the path. Find myself scrabbling on the banks of the Allt na Inbhire, trying to cross. Well, I give that up as a bad job after half an hour, and make my way cross-country to the Marble Line walkway. This used to be a railway carrying marble from the quarry up the hillside to the pier at Broadford. It closed suddenly at 1912. This path is well maintained and signposted. After a gate, it worsens slightly to a rough hillpath. Crossing the fence at Loch Lonachan is troublesome because of standing water. This continues to be a nuisance, not helped by frequent heavy showers. The valley opens out, and I duly arrive into what I thought was Suisnish. How wrong can you be. After checking my bearings against various landmarks and their relative position, I have to concede that I am 2 miles out and actually in the enclosure of Boreraig. Wander through the sad remains of that village (pictured above, courtesy Flickr-user Deano-T) and try to eat something in the pouring rain. Carry on as far as the Boreraig River, then turn back.Get a massive scare outside the village, when I'm taking a break at 12.52. As I look northeast, I see a fierce blob of light. About 2 seconds later, a deafening crash follows. I'm in the middle of a thunderstorm and there is NO shelter. I wait for the storm to move away, crouching down, then go on my way north.
After breakfast I was taken to Broadford, so that at 10 a.m., I was already heading down the Marble Line path again. Fairly bright day, and the path had had a chance to dry out. The crossing of the stile presented no big problems, and at midday I was back at Boreraig. Had a bit to eat, then resumed the trek at 12.20. The only thing was that by now, a big wall of grey had moved in from the west. After passing through Boreraig, the path became a narrow and precarious affair through rock and stone. Had to encourage sheep to move out of my way.It meanwhile started to rain with gusto, which made the path all the more hazardous. Due south of Carn Dearg, the path went up a crazily steep incline. With a little bit of handiwork, I arrived on the clifftop above Suisnish at 1.25. The view, for as much as there was, switched round to one of Strathaird and Loch Slapin. I found out yesterday that my boots were knackered. They are letting in water by the bucketfull, and I'm beginning to feel chilly. The passage through Suisnish (pictured, courtesy Flickr user blackpuddinonabike) is absolutely sodden. The path leads above the present-dayfarm buildings, then veers north. I slowly progress towards the road-end at Camas Malag. At 2.15, I encounter an elderly couple who want to go to Suisnish and ask me how far it is. Fifty minutes. I was a bit concerned because of their unsuitable footwear. Did not comment on that to their faces though. Arrived at Camas Malag at 2.30, and sat down on a hill just north of the road end. The rain had relented and was now showery. After half an hour, I carried on to the main road at Kilbride. This leads past a marble quarry, with the showers still going on. From that point, I had to walk along the B8083 Elgol - Broadford road. Not much of a bother because of light traffic. It just got alittle hairy along Loch Kilchrist, as I didn't have a lot of leeway, and the road runs along the loch shore. At Kilchrist, I cut through the wilderness to the Marble Line Path. I did not fancy a 3 mile roadwalk. It's a bit of a chore, and have to jump barbed wire, but I gain the path. Sit under a bridge to avoid a shower, then head north down the now-familiar curves of the Marble Line. At Broadford, I discover a dead sheep at the point where the path goes back to the road. From the village, I nip back to Kyleakin by Citylink bus.
Sunday 4 October
Quite a nice day, if a little on the cool side. The sun is out, although cloud was always present. The mercury struggled to get into double figures, but as there is very little wind, this is not very noticeable. Went out for a stroll around the Newton Basin, to check out this overturned boat which I noticed during yesterday's gale. Just as I came back, efforts began to right it. Which succeeded, 2 hours later. Whether it is still in working order after more than 24 hours of immersion into the briney waters of Stornoway Harbour is quite another matter.
Newton Basin, with the houses of Seaview Terrace in the background
The ferry did a run to Ullapool early this morning, to catch up with the backlog of traffic, caused by yesterday's cancellation of all crossings. It was unusual to see the Isle of Lewis coming into port at 1.30pm on a Sunday, but a welcome sight nonetheless. Yesterday's empty shelves caused by said cessation of services was later alleviated, when the lorries carrying our supplies diverted to Tarbert in Harris, where the ferry from Skye was still running.
MV Isle of Lewis entering port on Sunday afternoon
The rescue services across the Highlands and Islands have been busy this weekend, and not just keeping the yacht Elinca safe in Loch Tealasbhaigh in western Lewis. On Friday, a diver failed to return from a dive off Ardnamurchan Point, the most westerly point on the Scottish mainland, 100 miles south of Stornoway. Bad weather yesterday hampered the search, which was stood down yesterday afternoon. It was resumed today.
Newton Basin, with the houses of Seaview Terrace in the background
The ferry did a run to Ullapool early this morning, to catch up with the backlog of traffic, caused by yesterday's cancellation of all crossings. It was unusual to see the Isle of Lewis coming into port at 1.30pm on a Sunday, but a welcome sight nonetheless. Yesterday's empty shelves caused by said cessation of services was later alleviated, when the lorries carrying our supplies diverted to Tarbert in Harris, where the ferry from Skye was still running.
MV Isle of Lewis entering port on Sunday afternoon
The rescue services across the Highlands and Islands have been busy this weekend, and not just keeping the yacht Elinca safe in Loch Tealasbhaigh in western Lewis. On Friday, a diver failed to return from a dive off Ardnamurchan Point, the most westerly point on the Scottish mainland, 100 miles south of Stornoway. Bad weather yesterday hampered the search, which was stood down yesterday afternoon. It was resumed today.
Saturday, 3 October 2009
Local yacht in trouble
Local yacht Elinca, shown left, is the focus of a rescue operation off the far west coast of Lewis. She ran into difficulty after a gearbox failure in stormforce winds this morning, and requested Coastguard assistance just before 9 am. The Coastguard helicopter R101 flew the 45 miles to Loch Tealasbhaigh, where Elinca was anchored in to a lee-shore. Five non-essential crew were airlifted to safety, and arrived at Stornoway airport about a quarter of an hour ago (heard the helicopter go by overhead). The lifeboat was sent to the scene, but as this involves a 60 mile trip north around the Butt of Lewis in force 9 to 10 conditions, she is only expected to arrive there about now, 4 hours after the call was first made.More information on the MCA website.Location of yacht
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