View across the Outer Harbour of Stornoway

Saturday, 8 September 2012

Friday 7 September

A fairly bright day with good spells of sunshine. Went out to Gearrannan, 26 miles west of Stornoway, by bus at lunchtime. You need to change bus at Carloway, and the last mile and a half is covered by minibus. A bowl of soup and a sandwich was available at the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village. It is possible to walk around the village for free, but access to the museum house and exhibition requires the payment of a small fee. The wind was blowing steadily, making it feel colder than the 15C on the thermometer. The bus on the way back was developing a technical problem and it was sitting so high on its wheels that I had a spot of bother getting on bother. This was the schoolbus, and it went into most of the village along the way back to Stornoway.




Thursday, 6 September 2012

Thursday 6 September

Our autumn continues apace, with a very wet and windy morning, gradually calming down to a few glimpses of sunshine in the afternoon. We continue to experience the same temperatures as of late, around the 60F mark.

As you may remember, I called round the Butt of Lewis lighthouse on Monday, at the start of the gale. The lighthouse stands at the top of a 120 ft high cliff, and there is nothing to stop anyone falling off the edge. Recently, it was reported locally, someone was walking along the narrow path between the lighthouse wall and the cliff edge when they met a flock of sheep coming the other way. The walker, an elderly person, fell - against the wall. Just as easily, the person could have gone over the edge. What should authorities do in such a situation, was the question. Well, it is not practicable to fence off all the cliff edges in the island. All you can do is put up a prominent warning notice with the addition that everybody approaches the area at their own risk. In 1955, someone did fall to their death off the cliffs a little way west of the lighthouse. Common sense does help.

I had a nice time over the past hour and a half going through the blogs on my Google Reader, and through some of the resources for local history that it also contains. The Statistical Account for Scotland was the most remarkable. The Accounts were taken in the 1790s and 1830s and give an overview of life in Scotland's parishes at the time. I'll do some transcribing here and there as far as the Western Isles are concerned; the text is not easily read due to the presence of the lowercase letter S looking like the lowercase letter f, minus the cross-stroke.

Wednesday, 5 September 2012

Wednesday 5 September

A nice day, with plenty of sunshine and the mercury at 16C / 60F. Tomorrow should be another day like yesterday, with plenty of wind and rain. It has already prompted the cancellation of the ferry service between Castlebay and Oban. On our route, the Isle of Arran has bravely carried out the service to Ullapool, although struggling somewhat with the timetable. Last night, she was more than two hours behind schedule; this evening, that lagtime was down to about half an hour. The Isle of Lewis should be back in business tomorrow. Here in Stornoway, the winds should be lighter than down south, as we're close to the centre of the causative depression.

I am aware that I have been  blogging a lot about ferries these past few days, but don't forget that we rely on that link for all our supplies. Whether it be by the passenger vessel Isle of Lewis or the freight boat Muirneag, everything comes by sea. Whenever the ferry does not sail for a day or more, the supermarket shelves run empty and you get the phenomenon of those souls stopping in their tracks upon entering the shop, aghast at the empty shelves. Without realising why that is.

Talking of supplies, the Office of Fair Trading will be looking into the price of fuel nationwide. It is of particular relevance here, since the price of our fuel is 20p a litre higher than on the mainland. Rumours and accusations abound that there is a monopoly on fuel supplies here, leading to higher prices. I mentioned our fuel price earlier this week: £1.50 a litre or $9 a US gallon.

Hurricane update - 5 September

Hurricane Leslie is headed north at a snail's pace of 2 knots, but poses a direct threat to Bermuda. On Saturday and Sunday, the island can expect the hurricane to pass with maximum sustained winds of up to 100 mph. The Bermuda Weather Service will be posting warnings as the storm approaches from the south; it has been suggested that Bermuda could see winds of 34 knots (force 8) or higher for 42 hours over the weekend, and a lengthy spell of 64 knots (force 12) or higher as Leslie passes.

Beyond Bermuda, Leslie will be making for the Canadian Maritime provinces, but this forecast lies beyond the normal 5-day scope and developments will have to be monitored over the next few days to ascertain whether the hurricane, most likely weakened by then, will actually affect eastern Canada.

Secondly, tropical storm Michael is poised to become a hurricane. This storm, located 1100 miles east of Bermuda, poses no direct threat to land. Although presently moving northeast, the system will veer northwest under the influence of Leslie to its west.


The National Hurricane Center in Miami will be posting updates every 6 hours on both systems.

Tuesday, 4 September 2012

Tuesday 4 September

The strong winds persisted into the afternoon, but after 4pm, they began to die down. We had some sunshine in the morning, as shown in this pic.

The Calmac ferry you see moored alongside the ferry pier is the MV Isle of Arran, which is poised to take over from the MV Isle of Lewis. Our usual ferry has had to undergo repairs, which are allocated for this afternoon and into Wednesday. The Isle of Arran, a stand-by vessel, is much slower, and as I type this post (10.30pm), it is running 1½ hours behind even its adjusted schedule. I'm expecting people off it, so it's going to be a late evening. But that's nothing new.

The demolition of the old Nicolson Institute is progressing apace, and now the canteen has been taken down. Its kitchen apparatus lies crushed on the site. It appears that they are recycling some of the materials, released by the demolition.

Finally, fuel prices seem to be creeping up again. I could not resist snapping this image of the price board on the petrol station a quarter of a mile down the road from me. For my American readers, these prices equate to (roughly) $9 a gallon (US). Further south, prices are as high as £1.55 a litre. If you go to Dingwall, 20 miles north of Inverness, petrol is £1.30 a litre, and it is shipped there in exactly the same tanker that delivers our fuel. Don't ask.

Monday, 3 September 2012

Monday 3 September

An increasingly wild day, with the wind picking up to galeforce in the afternoon. Went out in the car to have lunch at the excellent Sonas Cafe in Port of Ness, but upon alighting from the vehicle, the wind nearly took the door away. As we enjoyed the fish and chips, the rain moved away and the sun came out. We proceeded to the Butt of Lewis, just over 2 miles to the northwest where it was surprisingly calm. One thing; it's a southerly wind today, and the Butt faces north. In order to get a good view, we then drove round to the new cemetery on the Habost machair, a couple of miles to the south and were literally and metaphorically blown away by the view. In spite of the weather, a good afternoon. Tomorrow, the windy weather will continue, which will most likely play havoc with the ferry schedule. We shall see.



Port of Ness beach

Port Sto


At the Butt of Lewis

Sunday, 2 September 2012

Sunday 2 September

Overcast and breezy but mainly dry. Went for a spin out to Great Bernera, one of my fave spots in this island. Called in at little Tobson, a tiny hamlet with two equally tiny beaches, and Bosta, which has this magnificent beach. The tide was way out, allowing me to almost walk out to the tidebell. Only a deep and fast running channel of water prevented me reaching the device itself. After a look round the Iron Age House and the cemetery, the next destination were the Callanish Stones. A handful of tourists were around there. Returned to Stornoway via the Pentland Road. Just a few images to give an idea:



Callanish Stones

Bosta Cemetery

Iron Age House

Tide Bell


Bosta

Tobson

Saturday 1 September

Plenty of wind and rain today, although the rain did abate a little by sunset. The temperatures have not changed since the last couple of days, about 15C.

Today, it was announced that the Germany company Grünenthal apologised over their product thalidomide - for not apologising earlier. The drug was given to pregnant women between the late 50s and early 60s, giving rise to hundreds of malformed children and thousands of failed pregnancies. The victims have described the apology as risible, saying the company completely ignored the fact that they had done something terribly wrong. Thalidomide has come back into use for the treatment of certain types of blood cancer.

When relaying information on the internet, please check sources. Someone stated that all the ferries out of Mallaig were cancelled, but upon checking the Calmac website, it turned out that they were disrupted. Talking of disrupted ferries, the MV Isle of Lewis will be off for repairs on Tuesday and Wednesday. The relief boat, MV Isle of Arran, is a slower craft. Also causing disruption are the springtides, which necessitate the retiming of the Leverburgh to Berneray ferry. It crosses the Sound of Harris, which can be short of water at low tide.

Friday, 31 August 2012

Friday 31 August

The last day of the month, and the 15th anniversary of the death of Princess Diana. In the early hours of 31 August 1997, she died of injuries sustained in a car crash in a Parish underpass. One of the most popular royals, her death led to a massive, nationwide (and beyond) outpouring of grief, something that was missed by the Royal Family - until it was almost too late. I have seen no reference to the anniversary in British websites; the reminder came from Dutch broadcaster NOS.

Comhairle nan Eilean Siar [Western Isles Council] has seen the light and scrapped the community skips. Dotted all over the islands, the green skips are available for people to dump their waste into; whether it be defunct household appliances, metal, wood - it was always there. The scrapping of this service will backfire spectacularly, because the uplift from people's homes costs £20 for up to 5 items. Knowing the economic hardship, suffered by many islanders, we can duly expect an increase in fly-tipping. The excuse, for excuse it is, is that the skips are a hazard for children who may be injured when they play in the skips. That is something I find less than likely; the aperture for putting stuff into the skips stands 4 feet off the ground. The reason that refuse workers may get injured through handling the contents of the skips can only be met with scorn.

Today was a day of overcast skies and occasional rain. It wasn't really cold, 15C / 59F, but neither was it vastly warm. The next few days will see more rain and wind. On Monday, the remains of hurricane Kirk will pay us a flying visit - just a near-gale.

Thursday, 30 August 2012

Thursday 30 August

A bright and sunny day, but getting a bit cooler than recently - we reached 15C / 59F. A complete turn-around from yesterday. In most places in the UK, the summer has been a complete wash-out. We have had one of our driest summers on record. Tonight will see a pronounced dip in temperatures, with a possible grass frost in some of the mainland glens.

The search is continuing, both above and under water, for the body of the man who went missing on Sunday in Loch Gairloch, 45 miles to the southeast on the Scottish mainland. I have doubts whether he will actually be found, but for the sake of the families involved, I do hope that will be the case.

It remains busy on the tropical cyclones front, but the worst of the effects of Isaac appears to be over. The storm is weakening over the southern USA, which continues to receive huge amounts of rainfall. Of longer term concern is hurricane Kirk, which will merge with a frontal system by next Tuesday to haunt the British Isles. It is yet too far off to determine what newly formed tropical storm Leslie will do. This system is currently expected to veer north to the east of Bermuda.

Wednesday, 29 August 2012

Wednesday 29 August

An overcast day with copious amounts of rainfall. The weatherstation at Flesherin reported 18 mm, but I suspect that a raingauge at Balallan will have reported rather more than that. I accompanied one of my Facebook contacts to South Lochs. Upon entering the district at Balallan, the rain came down heavily - but it abated as we proceeded further east. Near the coast, there was no rain. On the way back, the rain was torrential at Balallan, with burns in spate flooding the road, and making for very difficult driving conditions. Further north, the rain lessened somewhat. I pity the cruisepassengers who were given tours of the island today. But then, you don't come here for the weather. In other words, autumn is here, and here to stay.

Isaac has rumbled ashore in Louisiana and has dumped more than 22 inches (550 mm) of rain within 24 hours. The storm will weaken gradually as it moves even more gradually north up the Mississippi and Ohio valleys, finally fading near the Great Lakes. Another tropical storm, Kirk, is in the central Atlantic Ocean, and is no threat to land.

Tuesday 28 August

A very windy day with good old fashioned downpours, and feeling quite a bit cooler than of late. Nonetheless, the rain is welcome after a protracted spell of below-average rainfall. Locally, the news continues to be dominated by the canoe tragedy in Gairloch which is known to have claimed three young lives, of children aged 2, 5 and 5. A man aged 32 is missing presumed dead. Although a shoreline search of the Ruadh Reidh peninsula continues, it is my private opinion that his body will have been carried out to sea, into the Minch and into the Atlantic beyond. It is very unlikely to ever be found.

Hurricane Isaac is closing in on New Orleans, seven years to the day after Katrina caused devastation and massive loss of life. Typhoon Bolaven has moved ashore in North Korea and is no longer a tropical cyclone as it traverses Manchuria. Typhoon Tembin is moving north towards the Korean peninsula and is weakening rapidly.

82 years ago today

The family had finished packing up all their earthly belongings. The ship was in the bay, and all were making ready to go aboard, leaving their home of many centuries behind. The dogs couldn't come on the ship and would not be left behind. The head of the household took the family bible and opened it on the table, on the chapter of Exodus. Beside the Holy Book, he laid a handful of grain. They all went outside and walked to the boat which took them to the navy boat in the bay.

All the villagers of Hiort were evacuated on 29 August 1930. Their houses, cleits and culture were left behind. Over the years, a record was created of the culture, the houses were reroofed and the cleits investigated. But St Kilda died that day.

Monday, 27 August 2012

A tale of two typhoons


Courtesy NASA
Typhoon Bolaven, a category IV typhoon, is barrelling north into the Yellow Sea, whilst maintaining a gossamer thread link to its half-sized brother Tembin south of Taiwan. Tembin is a category I system.

Bolaven is weakening as it heads for landfall in North Korea, which will receive large amounts of rainfall.
Tembin is going to be dragged north by its larger neighbour. 

Monday 27 August

A day of very mixed fortunes. After an abysmal start to the day, with heavy rain, it brightened up - only for the wind to ratchet up a notch to force 7, with gusts to 45 mph. As I type this, the sun is going down and the wind is still blowing. We'll keep the wind well into tomorrow.

Yesterday, a canoe overturned in the sea a few miles west of Gairloch, on the mainland. In it were two families, out for the day from Invergordon, north of Inverness. One of the adults went missing and three young children, aged 2, 5 and 5, have drowned. Another child and another adult managed to gain the shore to raise the alarm. The incident was the first headline on national news; initially only two youngsters had died, but it was announced at 7pm tonight that a third one had succumbed to the ordeal. The Coastguard have spent the day scouring Loch Gairloch for the missing man, but the search was changed to a recovery operation which was stood down when the weather deteriorated during the afternoon. Gairloch is about 45 miles southwest of Stornoway and has much the same weather patterns. Loch Gairloch is connected to the open waters of the Minch, and is known to have strong tidal currents, particularly on account of the island in the bay.


I took the above image on 26 July 1994. It shows the area where this tragedy played out yesterday.

The northeastern coast of the Gulf of Mexico, from Louisiana eastward, are bracing themselves from a strike by tropical storm Isaac, which is forecast to intensify to hurricane force soon. The National Hurricane Center in Miami is predicting a storm surge of 6 to 12 feet along the Louisiana coastline, at precisely the location and date where Hurricane Katrina impacted in 2005. Isaac is expected to be "only" category I; Katrina was a cat III, downgraded from V, when it hit New Orleans. 

Sunday, 26 August 2012

Sunday 26 August

A bright and sunny day, until evening. Cloud has started to stream in from the southwest, ahead of the first autumnal gale of the season tomorrow. We haven't really had strong winds for a long time, but our unusually long quiet spell is coming to a close, as summer comes to a close.

Summer is definitely not coming to a close in the tropics. Whilst everybody is panicking in Florida over tropical storm Isaac, the folk on the Japanese island of Okinawa have sat through their worst typhoon in 50 years. Bolaven came blasting through at midday GMT, with winds of more than 110 mph near the centre of the storm. The island's airport reported 60 mph. Meanwhile, Isaac is headed west northwest past Key West and looks set to intensify in the Gulf of Mexico. The NHC carries 3-hourly updates on this system.

Saturday, 25 August 2012

Hurricane update - 25 August

Tropical storm ISAAC is currently traversing eastern Cuba, with maximum sustained windspeeds of 50 knots (60 mph). The storm will continue to track westnorthwest over the next 24 hours or so, before veering sharply north into the Florida Keys and southern Florida, reaching those parts as a category I hurricane. The system will intensify further, and make final landfall somewhere between the Florida Panhandle and southeastern Louisiana by Tuesday or Wednesday at 85 knots, 100 mph. The National Hurricane Center is issuing 3-hourly advisories, which will increase in frequency as the storm starts to directly impact US territory.

Typhoon TEMBIN is located southwest of Taiwan and is currently looping around to the northeast whilst strengthening. The latest warning quotes its strength at 75 knots or 85 mph. Tembin will skirt the eastern seaboard of Taiwan, which it has already blasted on Thursday and Friday.

Some 750 miles to the north, typhoon BOLAVEN is making directly for Okinawa, which it will impact at 120 knots or 140 mph. Beyond that, the storm will weaken as it heads up the Yellow Sea to impact North Korea. The storm will cause huge problems in Korea, northeastern China and southeastern Russia with vast amounts of rainfall.

Saturday 25 August

I just logged onto a rather buggy Twitter this evening when the news caught my eye that Neil Armstrong, the first man on the moon, has died at the age of 82. I do not remember the moon landings in July 1969 (I was just short of my 5th birthday), but have always recognised it as one of the biggest achievements of mankind. To quote Neil Armstrong: he took a small step for man, but a big step for mankind. To quote one Twitter user: he has now taken the hardest step of all.

Friday, 24 August 2012

Friday 24 August

Another day of sunshine and showers, and a tad cooler.


The building shown above dates back to 1849. It was established by the wife of former landowner Sir James Matheson as the Lady Matheson Seminary, which has fallen into disuse. Following a spat between the local council and a preservation trust, it now looks likely that this ancient edifice will fall into ruins.

I sent off another four cards for postcrossing, which has now seen me sending and receiving 120 cards over the past 18 months. Three cards were never registered by their recipients - maybe the cards did not reach their destinations.

Anders Breivik has been sentenced to 21 years in prison for the murder of 77 people in and around Oslo in July 2011. He was declared sane, which the man appeared to regard as a triumph. However, having to spend your life in solitary confinement would not exactly be a triumph. It certainly won't bring back the dead, but is a degree of justice for those left behind.

Thursday, 23 August 2012

Thursday 23 August

Another day of mixed fortunes in the Outer Hebrides. The cruiseliner MSC Lirica came to call, discharging Spanish tourists for a whistlestop tour of the island. It left at 6pm for Gourock, about 30 miles west of Glasgow. We had sunshine and showers amidst temps of 16C. The longer term forecast posts the first autumnal gale for next Tuesday, August 28th. Meanwhile in the tropics, Isaac is having trouble pulling itself together, and Joyce is being pulled apart. I would not be surprised to find Joyce gone by morning. In the Pacific, Tembin and Bolaven are two category III typhoons. The former is about to pass over southern Taiwan, whilst the latter is powering up on approach to Okinawa. That island will see Bolaven at 120 knots, about 140 mph, in a few days' time.

A few years ago, I would blog up to a dozen posts a day, particularly on the old Northern Trip blog. Nowadays, I post all those items on Facebook and Twitter, and don't give them another thought. However, I am temporarily reverting back to old ways, by discussing a news item on the BBC - I gave my opinion on Facebook, but will expand further here.

An abuse charity is planning to burn copies of the erotic trilogy "Fifty Shades", which apparently features explicit descriptions of sexual behaviour, possibly non-consensual. When I hear of books being burns, I immediately recoil in horror. In 1930s Germany, books that were displeasing the Nazi regime were burned across the land. Fifty Shades is controversial, and I will not read it. I condemn (sexual) abuse in all its forms, and am a verbal supporter of those, like Wearside Women in Need, who will provide aid and succour to those unfortunate women who are victims of abuse. I know one or two personally. However, the charity in question defeats the object of its own exercise because by purchasing the books, they support the author and their publisher. It will also publicise the books further, prompting people to go out and read them. In a civilised society, we do NOT burn books. If there is an issue with a publication, there should be a healthy discussion. Education is a much better and more constructive option.